On the road with Nicol and Albin

Hitching the Atlantic coast
Hitching the Atlantic coast

La Rochelle! The city that I have always wanted to visit since my school French class, when every character in the text book either lived in La Rochelle, worked in La Rochelle, or went on holiday in La Rochelle. A bright blue kingfisher darts through the park and the streets are calm and quiet.

We set up camp, perched on a sand dune next to the Atlantic ocean on a freezing, icy night.

Camping in the frost on the freezing coast in Châtelaillon near La Rochelle
Camping in the frost on the freezing coast in Châtelaillon near La Rochelle
HITCHHIKING OUR FIRST TRACTOR!
HITCHHIKING OUR FIRST TRACTOR!
Nicol et moi, happy on the road
Nicol et moi, happy on the road

Hitchhiking in France is, of course, easy, and once again, female drivers stop regularly for us. I think it’s the only country I have been to where the drivers don’t say, “You’re hitchhiking? It’s dangerous!” Each driver has a different life and a different story. One woman is pregnant and moving house; one driver, Abdel, offers us a job in his vineyard; Brenda has a brain tumour and is on her way to the hospital for a scan.

So far, Nicol’s been a perfect travel companion, but now she faces the ultimate test: a few days of walking in the French nature in the pouring rain with a heavy rucksack on her back, sleeping in a leaky tent in the middle of winter! We walk the GR64 hiking route to the Dordogne river and the rain lashes down on us. Nothing phases Nicol, and we laugh hysterically as we walk through a farm and sink into a mixture of cow shit and mud and the poo seeps into our socks.

Shitty shoes!
Shitty shoes!
Nicol, looking surprisingly   awake after a cold night in the tent
Nicol, looking surprisingly awake after a cold night in the tent
Aaaah! France!
Aaaah! France!
Castelnaud on the Dordogne
Castelnaud on the Dordogne
Nicol having a break
Nicol having a break
La Roque Gageac on the Dordogne
La Roque Gageac on the Dordogne

After a couple of days of being cold to the bone, we arrive in Cahors, literally covered in shit. A woman asks me if I’m ok and offers to buy me a sandwich from the bakery.

We have persuaded my friend Albin that he really wants to take us on a roadtrip in his van named Coco, and he picks us up in Cahors. We travel just 15km and Coco breaks down.

After a few hours, the van is fixed and we travel along the river Lot in the Causses du Quercy region. Albin looks out of the window as he drives and constantly waves his arm in the air, gesturing for us to look at the view. “My garden!” he says with a big grin, proud of the country that he’s from.

We follow the vallée du Célé and travel through the gorges de la Cère and gorges de la Luzège. The scenery is magical – sometimes it feels like we’re in a fairytale.

"Today is a terrible day," Albin moans as we break down.
“Today is a terrible day,” Albin moans as we break down.
Nicol and Albin with Coco the van, in the perfect sleeping place  on the river Lot
Nicol and Albin with Coco the van, in the perfect sleeping place on the river Lot
Nicol, Albin et moi
Nicol, Albin et moi
This place actually exists! The Tour de Merle
This place actually exists! The Tour de Merle
Nicol et moi, on the top of the world at Saint Pantaléon de Lapleau on the  Gorges de la Luzège
Nicol et moi, on the top of the world at Saint Pantaléon de Lapleau on the Gorges de la Luzège
Collecting spring water!
Collecting spring water!
Nicol and me at the Viaduc des Rochers Noir
Nicol and me at the Viaduc des Rochers Noir

Our few days on the road together are spent with a lot of laughter and also a lot of (mostly lighthearted) bickering, as the three of us learn to share Albin’s tiny house on wheels. “ORGANISATION!” Albin exclaims to us at every opportunity. For Albin, organisation means switching his bags of belongings to the driver’s seat when he wants to sleep, and back to the main part of the van when he wants to drive.

“I want to teach you the life in a van,” Albin says to us. Life in the van proves to be complicated, and the simple act of opening the van’s door is problematic, as it involves a special technique. “You pull, you pull, and you push!” Albin demonstrates again and again. I finally get the hang of it on our last day together.

Despite some bickering, our days are mostly filled with giggling and singing, and we laze in the sunshine in the daytime and explore the incredible nature. Albin teaches me the guitar and Nicol the diablo, and as he’s a juggler, we spend many hours juggling. I discover that I have a natural talent for balancing a ball on my head!

On our final evening, we stop in a tiny village in the darkness, and Albin knocks on the door of a house to ask for water. A man called Dominique answers the door and invites us in for dinner. We are humbled by his kindness and we spend an interesting couple of hours cooking dinner and talking about each other’s lives, and Dominique tells me how he used to hitchhike many years ago. We chat about Jack Kerouac and both agree that the book On The Road is actually a bit shit.

This talent is going to make me millions!
This talent is going to make me millions!
The juggler
The juggler
Beautiful forest
Beautiful forest
France!
France!
In the fairytale nature
In the fairytale nature
Albin and Nicol with our host, Dominique
Albin and Nicol with our host, Dominique

Finally, it’s time to say goodbye to Albin and his van, Coco, and I have tears in my eyes when they drive out of sight. I feel so lucky to be alive, and to have been travelling with both Nicol and Albin – both very beautiful souls. Nicol and I continue onwards alone, hitchhiking towards Ardèche, through mountains of snow. We arrive at Françoise and Denis’s house in the mountains. As Françoise and Denis tell Nicol about their travels, I marvel at how inspirational my friends are: Françoise, who walked from France to China, Denis who studied Mandarin in China; and Albin, who gave up a conventional engineering job to become a juggler.

Like Albin, Françoise thinks that France is the most beautiful country ever, and we laugh as she plays us Jean Ferrat’s Ma France (My France). And after these last couple of weeks on the road, I’m inclined to agree with them that France is one of the most beautiful places in the world.

On the road!
On the road!
In the snowy mountains of Ardèche
In the snowy mountains of Ardèche

12 Comments Add yours

  1. Laureene Reeves Ndagire says:

    This looks magical indeed, oh how i miss the road…on the road again
    Have fun girls X

    Like

    1. lisa says:

      yes, it was magical in places! where are you now? have you settled somewhere for a little while?

      Like

      1. Laureene Reeves Ndagire says:

        Hi Lisa. I am in Holland for now, going to a farm in Norway sometime in May and off to Nicaragua. Will you be in Europe for a while? X

        Like

        1. lisa says:

          nicaragua! i want to head that way, but possibly next year. i think i am heading back to turkey again this year…!

          Like

  2. Karen says:

    I love this blog post ! I want to go on an adventure like this !! Have a great time. Karen xx

    Like

    1. lisa says:

      thanks karen! i hope you’ve got more sunshine than we have…we are currently in Nicol’s village with 3 feet of snow!

      Like

  3. Buddhist centre Lisa says:

    Wow! It all looks so beautiful and interesting! I love hearing your stories and seeing your pictures. Vive la France! Love to you both xx

    Like

    1. lisa says:

      love to you too, lisa! i think there must be so many hidden places to discover in France xxx

      Like

  4. Anonymous says:

    france… how I love france and reeeeally look forward to going back sometime! Thanks for the wonderful reminder! xx

    Like

    1. lisa says:

      thanks for reading! xx

      Like

  5. manuel says:

    Lisa, like the post! I don’t know my way around france much, so I
    mapped some points to get an idea:
    http://umap.openstreetmap.fr/en/map/lisa-france_29983#8/45.412/1.997
    (it’s editable)
    thanks for the post, it’s inspiring

    Liked by 1 person

    1. lisa says:

      thanks manuel! i love this! i should do this for all of my blog posts xx

      Like

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