Black Bogies and Phlegm in Bashur

  You know you’re in a polluted place when your bogies go black and your chest starts to hurt. I’m back in South (Iraqi) Kurdistan, which is also known simply as Bashur, meaning South, to Kurds. I’m with three friends, trying to cross the border into Rojava. Bureaucracy, politics and crooked governments have ensured that…

Friendly faces in Kurdistan, Northern Iraq (but where are the women?!)

Kurdistan is a region that covers parts of Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Syria, and where the population, culture and language is mostly Kurdish.  Kurds  are “the largest national, cultural group that has never been able to achieve a national territory”, says Noam Chomsky. I am still travelling with my Norwegian friends, Mats and Robert, and…