Moss & monkeys in Yakushima

The mountainous island of Yakushima is said to be 90% covered with forest. 90%! Because of this, Chris and I board the oldest, rustiest and cheapest ship in Japan’s waters and sail to this fairytale place. Yakushima has actually been extensively logged and replanted. However, some old-growth forest still remains, and two-thousand year old yakusugi…

Hiking the Te Araroa in Aotearoa (New Zealand): part 4

I am hiking the Te Araroa, a long distance hiking trail which spans the length of Aotearoa (New Zealand). This blog post covers the following sections of the trail on the south island: Rakaia river to Rangitata river; Rangitata river crossing;  Two Thumb Track. (We did not attempt to cross the Rakaia river on foot,…

Hiking the Te Araroa in New Zealand: part 3

This blog post covers the following sections of the trail on the south island: Waiau Pass; Boyle Village to Arthur’s Pass; Arthur’s Pass to the Rakaia river. You can also read part 1 & part 2 of the hike. 1) Waiau Pass trail in the Nelson Lakes: 115.5km, 8 days: It’s raining. The river hurls…

Hiking the Te Araroa trail in New Zealand: Part 2

This blog post covers the first 230km of the Te Araroa on the south island: the Queen Charlotte Track, the Pelorus river trail and the Richmond Ranges. You can also read part 1 of the trail. “This is not a trail,” I splutter at Chris breathlessly as I huff and puff my way up, terrified…

Hiking the Te Araroa trail, New Zealand: Part 1

Chris and I spontaneously decide that we’re going to walk a hiking trail which spans the length of New Zealand – or Aotearoa in Māori – some 3,000km. The trail is called the Te Araroa. One month later, we arrive in Auckland. I don’t know that much about New Zealand, except that my favourite comedy…

Hiking the GR10 trail in the Pyrénées

We hiked the GR10 in June 2016. I don’t like climbing mountains. I think of it as macho: the egoic human wanting to conquer the peak. Don’t get me wrong, I love long distance hiking, and I have done my fair share of hikes. But I don’t feel the need to climb a few thousand…

More reflections on being alone: Hiking the Carian Trail (part 3 )

I am walking the Carian Trail, an 800km long hiking route in south-west Turkey. See parts 1 and 2 here and here. Day 8: Eski Datça to Pigs Hollow (15km) I have started a new section of the Carian Trail – the Datça Peninsula. To my relief, the trail becomes unbelievably beautiful and, thank god,…

All alone with my mind: Hiking the Carian Trail (part 2)

I am walking part of the Carian Trail, an 800km hiking route in south-west Turkey. Read part 1 here. Day 4: Bahçeli to Cumhuriyet (Söğüt) (9km) Today is a day of letting go. Letting go of the egotistical desire to complete a certain amount of kilometres each day. Letting go of my aversion to the…

Hiking the Carian Trail (part 1): endurance and struggle!

The Carian Trail (or the Karia Yolu in Turkish) is an 800km hiking trail along the south-west coast of Turkey. Having walked the Lycian Way in Turkey a few years before, I am certain that I know what I am getting into. My intention is to walk 400km of the trail, and I want to…

Paradise Almost Lost

So speak out loud of the Things you are proud And if you love this coast Keep it clean as it evolves Cos the way that it shines May just dwindle with time With the changes it will confront Xavier Rudd – Messages Some of your people can’t hear it The cries of the Earth…